The safe connection of the charger to the car or battery on the bench, requires a connection harness Each harness was designed for a specific car, so the wire lengths and termination system was the best combination of safety and ease of connection. Read More
Will start this blog with the Grid charger owner that is the furthest away. Enkhbat Gankhuyag Location Ulaanbaatar Mongolia Enkhbat has started a Prius service business using two GCM1 chargers. he explained how they had to build the shop them self, and how the temperatures were so cold that they could only work during the Afternoon. The collage shows the initial construction, including a photo of a small fire to warm up the transmission and engine. Photos show the shop progressing, as then begin to get some work. Wish them a lot of good luck.
Read this first: The charging/rebalancing procedure is not fast, and involves deep discharging the pack by either driving up mountains, or using the discharger to deplete the charge. If the user you would like to connect with has a charger, but his harness is already installed in his car, he would not be able to try charging your car, as there is no way to connect to it. If he does not have a discharger, you may want to get one so you can both benefit from the charger and discharger.
What many people have done is to get and install one of my harnesses after making a connection with a charger owner.
Second issue is time. A thorough initial conditioning cycle would be:
59 hours, or 2 and a half days. You would not have a car during that period, and the donor would have to mind the car.
It would be cool if people in the same area could coordinate using the charger, so the group members could share the cost of the charger.
Some charger owners will help people with different aspects of the charger install or use, the following codes will describe their abilities* (I cannot vouch for people that claim abilities here) Contact me directly to change the info for your entry in the list.
Charger type GCO1,GCM1,GCIM1
Discharger (DIS) allows cycling of the pack for better capacity recovery
Shop harness (SH)Can charge without real harness installed
What help are you willing to offer:
Charging if you have harness (CG if HI)
Harness install and charging (HI-CG)
Full reconditioning (FR)
Diagnostics of pack that needs more than charging (DIAG)
Any monetary, beer, dinner, or other gratuities for the services offered should be negotiated between the people involved. If people do not have a list of services they are willing to do, don't ask me to contact them, as only a few are willing to accept the liability and have the time to do a reconditioning, and they have indicated that, the rest have not came foward, and I dont want to bug them.
MW Mobile , AL JL Huntsville, AL BC Cedar Bluff, AL RS Grand Bay, AL DL Harrison, AR KC Anthem, AZ GC Phoenix, AZ GB Sahuarita, AZ SK Tucson, AZ RD Tucson, AZ---RUSH (IC)--- GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR ,DIAG JR Tucson, AZ KK Prescott, AZ MB Gilbert, AZ MB Sun City, AZ TH Casa Grande, AZ DC Mesa, AZ JB Campbell, CA JF San Luis Obispo, CA JT Santa Clara, CA DL San Jose, CA TE San Diego, CA JC San Diego, CA JW Pomona, CA JH South Pasadena,CA MM Whittier, CA TC Moorpark, CA TE Canoga Park, CA SS Arcadia, CA AD Torrance, CA DG Azusa, CA BJ Quincy, CA DL Redway, CA JL Penn Valley, CA AP Ojai, CA DR LaCrescenta, CA JS Vacaville, CA PG Granite Bay, CA PW Hacienda Heights, CA DB Santa Maria, CA AZ Santee, CA GV Oakland, CA MC Oakland,CA WB Colorado Springs, CO SK Lafayette, CO RR Durango,CO RS Loveland, CO DS Bloomfield CT ML Washington, DC DE Naples, FL MB Melbourne, FL MK Crestview, FL AL Inglis , FL MF Coral Springs, FL SD SDOrlando, FL / Kennesaw, GA GH Springhill, FL SS Gainsville, FL DP Auburndale, FL TG Cumming, GA, ---TopFuelTim on IC--- GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR GG Newnan, GA CR Atlanta, GA TW Atlanta, GA JN Marietta, GA CE Waikoloa, HI MK Paia, HI BT Davenport IA BW Wilton, IA RC Scalesmound, IL TK Palatine, IL WS Newburg, IN CC Lafayette, IN CS Jeffersonville,IN RS Gary, IN SM Baldwin City, KS ZH Wichita, KS RR Howard, KS DW Wingo, KY KD Lafayette, LA JM Mandeville, LA DC Lake Charles, LA DO Hammond, LA JD Ferriday, LA SK Warwick, MA AB Falmouth, MA CY Natic,MA Go Green Auto care Gaithersburg, MD---GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR AK Potomac, MD PR Frederick, MD AF Windham, ME BS WoolWich, ME MC Bath, ME DM Richmond, ME SS Cape Elizabeth, ME RB AnnArbor, MI SR Hartland, MI KE Richmond, MI WA Grass LAke, MI---wayneapple IC---GCO1,DIS,CG if HI,HI-CG, BB Chaplin, MN JB Coon Rapids MN----GCO1 ,DIS, CG if HI, HI CG(lifter) Programmer MC Minneapolis, MN BX St Paul, MN TU Plymouth, MN RH Montevideo, MN TT Eagan, MN JJ Saint Charles, MO CVN Saint Joseph, MO MG Billings, MT PS Wilmington NC ET Chapel Hill, NC DE Nags Head NC JV Charlotte, NC JM Charlotte, NC PR Durham, NC NC Durham, NC RS Grand Forks, ND BW Ravenna, NE Green Earth Hybrid Chichester , NH---GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR MS Dublin, NH MF Dover, NH JB Derry, NH SD West Long Branch, NJ SP New Milford, NJ GS Highland Park, NJ JR Medford, NJ GC Brick, NJ SS Albuqerque, NM EP Santa FE, NM DD Santa FE, NM PH Las Vegas NV GR Niagra Falls, NY TF Rochester, NY WK Fillmore, NY EH Accord, NY AB Kingston, NY EB Staten Island, NY RG Great Neck, NY PF Menands, NY MS Willoughby, OH PD Laruelville, OH VA Brook Park, OH WC Mayfield Hts, OH GR Bowling Green, OH CL Cincinnati, OH JE Columbus, OH JL Jefferson, OH RH Mentor, OH BB Tulsa, OK SE Warren, OR ML Hillsboro, OR ---interestedguy on IC --- GC01, DIS,CG if HI, HI-CG EK Gearhart, OR EP Milwaukie, OR SR Beaverton, OR CB Mountain Top, PA DS Allentown, PA KG Enola, PA TD Clarendon, PA MS Honesdale, PA RR Greenville, SC JD Columbia, SC RF Spartanburg, SC GL McCormick ,SC JS Clemson, SC MD Tigerville, SC LC Lenoir City, TN MD Nashville, TN DL Madisonville, TN JR Austin, TX GJ Austin, TX RM Garland, TX DC Terrell Hills, TX DR Wimberly ,TX MD Houston, TX RT Houston, TX SC Houston, TX RM Bedford, TX WL Fort Worth, TX MK Salt Lake City, UT DL Delta, UT NB Bluffdale, UT CW Saratoga Springs, UT DS Arlington, VA LK Lynchburg, VA MS Vienna, VA JL Winchester, VA JB Herndon, VA LD Lynchburg, VA JE Central, VA ---jime IC--- GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR TM Manassas, VA WK Mineral, VA AK Hartland, VT JC Williston, VT CC Bow, WA KS Brush Praire, WA DN Keslo ,WA WS Kent, WA DR Blaine, WA JM Seattle, WA JH Richland, WA RN Monroe, WA MW Richland Center WI EP Sauk City, WI MR Madison, WI RR Huntington, WV
KP Iceland JB Newfoundland, Canada ES Calgary, Canada BK Ontario,Canada GG Quebec, Canada PG Quebec, Canada BB Edmonton, Canada SG Yorkton, SK Canada RH Wrexham UK JL Kent, UK HI IO Huddersfield, UK GEG Diagnostics Cheltenham, Gloucestershire UK GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR CH New Zealand EG Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia GCM1, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR AI Uppsala, Sweden AT SWITZERLAND AP SriLanka GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR ZI SriLanka GC01, DIS, SH, CG if HI, HI-CG, FR WD The Netherlands Hycarz Singapore WellTune Singapore
***********I no longer offer the programmer, but will leave the page here for reference.*****************
Pic programmers can have different programming connectors. The Microchip units have a 6 pin RJ/12 connector, and others have a 5 pin SIP. This set of components lets the RJ/12 type program the SIP, and the SIP program the RJ/12. With a programmer like the low cost ICPO2 or the ICD 3 from microchip, you can easily upgrade the code for your charger.
NOTE*********************** At this time, the SOC reset device is only fully functional on the Honda Insight 2000-2006. The civic functions are not working,so do not buy this for a civic.We have removed the switch on the new batch, to avoid confusion and possible switching by mistake. ************************** Price $65, which includes the postage to anywhere in the US. ******************************************************************* only 12 left. ************************
After a grid charge, the car may or may not recognize that a charge has happened. It seems that if the SOC is over half when the car was last turned off, and a charge was applied to the pack,the SOC may not show the change. If the car is reset by disconnecting the 12V battery, or if fuse # 18 is pulled under the dash, the SOC will reset to full. None of these is an easy to use technique to get the car in sync with the freshly charged batteries true SOC.
Thanks to Peter Perkins work on decoding the communication over the OBDII port, for his OBDII C&C device, he has discovered the codes required to set the SOC to 19 bars, which will allow us to charge, then set the SOC to full, so the car properly handles the fully charged pack. Thanks Peter for sharing these codes. Of course Peters OBDC&C gauge can also do this function, as well as a lot more. The final SOC reset is now available, and thanks to Peter Perkins, we have included several more functions that the typical IMA user will find useful.
1- SOC reset = 19 bars on the SOC bargraph. 2- SOC reset = 6 bars 3- Clear IMA codes 4- Clear Check engine codes 5- IMA fan low speed 6- IMA fan high speed 7- IMA fan off 8- Initialize OBDII com
The SOC 19 bar and SOC 6 bar functions could cause the battery to be charged at inappropriate times if activated by mistake, so the entry of the 8 codes has a special entry procedure to minimize the risk of false activation. example: To check fan operation we have 3 fan codes 5, 6 and 7, lets use fan high code 6 as an example. Press the top SOC reset button 6 times quickly. After a short delay, the led will blink 6 times to confirm that it registered the correct 6 presses. Shortly after the 6 blinks, the led will come on steady. Press the SOC reset button once while the led is lit, and the command for fan high speed will be sent to the car. Shortly after the press the fan will run at high speed. If you changed you mind, or found that it blinked the incorrect number of times, just wait until the steady led goes out and try again. The command will not be sent until you do a single press of the SOC reset button when the steady led is on.
To do SOC reset to 19 bars, one would follow the exact same procedure except you will only press the SOC reset button one time, the LED on the device will only blink 1 time, then press the SOC reset button again when the steady led is on to send the command.
Another function on the SOC reset device is the Blink code button. If something is wrong with the car, the "IMA" or "check engine" lights will illuminate on your dash.
If you have a code reader, and connect it to the OBDII port, it will give a trouble code like P1449.
If you don't have a code reader with you, you can still determine what is wrong with the car, by using the SOC reset device second function, or the blink code reader. If there is a trouble code, and you press and hold the bottom Blink code button, the IMA and check engine lights will blink the 2 digit codes. The IMA codes will blink the IMA trouble light on the dash, and a check engine code will blink the on dash check engine light.
The slow blinks are the tens digit, the fast blinks are the units digit. If more than one trouble code is set in the car, the IMA or check engine will blink each two digit code in sequence, and then start over again. The blink codes are actually better diagnostics than the Pcodes. as an example, the P 1449 actually has 4 blink codes. P& blink codes Page 1 Blink code What it means 72----------Battery Module overheating (the whole battery is getting too hot)
73----------Battery cell overheating( the PTC detected one cell getting too hot)
74----------Battery Module Individual Voltage deviation ( the pack is out of balance, so a subpack is at a different voltage than the rest)
78----------Battery Module Deterioration(pack capacity below the minimum allowed)
The device in theory should also perform the same functions on a first generation civic when the switch on the OBDII connector is set to the civic position, but I do not have a civic to test it on, so I am not able to confirm that it works on the civics at this time.
Price of the SOC reset device will be $60, which includes the shipping in the US. Contact me via e-mail if you want one of these. Mike Read More
************************************************* Notice I had a guy in Arizona stick the discharger in a closed hatch at >100F, and when the discharge ended, the discharger stayed on, and the charger started charging, the discharge is 2A, the charger is only 1A, so the pack saw a 1A discharge, and the only way to stop it was to turn off the pack, or unplug the discharger from the car harness while current was flowing. Not a good thing.
The Power mosfet failed shorted due to overheating.
A shorted mosfet is out of control of the charger, so it would have totally discharged the pack had he not been checking it when it started charging.
We can't stop the discharger if the mosfet won't shut off, but we can make the charger make some very noticeable noises to get your attention, and we can advise that all cycling is done in a car that is well ventilated, and below 100 degrees., preferabally much lower than that.
We will have new code hopefully early next week, that we will install in all the new batch of chargers. This code detects the shorted discharger and makes a lot of noise to let you know. It also gives full discharge control to the user when they are in the password protected tech edit Discharger stop bypass mode.
This was an extreme temperature condition, and under normal temperatures, the heat sink is hardly warm. The Max load current is 2A, the mosfet is rated for 8A, so we are well into the conservative area, and should not have thermal problems unless the ambient is too high. I Also advise that the rug and IMA switch cover is exposed so the main breaker can be turned off to end a shorted discharge safely. Pulling the charge connector may arc and damage the connector pin. Glad we heard about this before I shipped a bunch of the chargers. For the people that already have upgraded code, and a discharger, contact me and we will get your chip upgraded, just ask that you send the old one back.
So be careful, Best leave the discharging for the moderate temperatures below 90F *****************************************************
The charger can do a much better job of balancing a battery if the pack can be discharged deeply, but not so deep that any cells reverse. The Dis-charger accessory for the grid charger can do that function. The discharger is pretty simple, just an optically isolated 250V Power MOSFET that acts as a computer controlled HV switch to connect and disconnect the discharger to the pack. The schematic for the basic circuit is here: Discharger rev 2 shoplight
Another function that can be performed with the charger and discharger is subpack internal resistance comparisons. Every battery has a characteristic called Internal resistance (IR). This is a very important number, as it will determine how well the cell can output current. A cell with high IR will drop in voltage much more than a cell with low IR when under a load,and will heat up much more as well. The same cell and will rise in voltage when charged more than a low IR cell.
The actual voltage drop with knowledge of the current flowing can give us the IR, which for NIMH batteries, can be a pretty small value. So how do we reliably measure this small value with the charger/discharger? The difficulty in measuring IR's small voltage, is that the voltage is riding on the 7-8V DC that the subpack is at, so the meters ability to see voltage of as little as 0.002V when on a scale that can read 8V requires a special differential meter. A second problem is that as the load is draining current from the pack, the overall voltage is also dropping as the SOC drops, so you have a moving target. The discharger and charger have a pulse mode. This mode is protected by the tech edit password, as it must be used correctly or over discharging of the pack can occur.Since we are trying to compare the IR of all the sticks to determine if any are high in IR, the pack would be disassembled on the bench to allow access to the end points of the sticks.
The pulse mode turns the discharger on, and then off at 33HZ, so effectively current is flowing for half the time, and not for the other half. The frequency is nearly 50HZ, so it falls in the range of the regular 50-60HX AC line. The test mode is turned on, and while the pack is slowly discharging. Since the series string of cells is all being pulsed at the same time, the same current will be drawn on all cells, so all cells have the same pulsing current. The AC meter setting will block the DC of the cell, and only show the AC voltage produced when the current goes on and off, and the stick voltage varies at 48HZ. The voltages are still small, but most DVMs can easily and reliably read the AC value. Run quickly down the string of subpacks, and record the voltages, and if any subpack has a noticeably higher AC voltage, it will likely be the one causing your problems. The resistance of the harness, Harness fuse, main contactor, and main 100A fuse are all adding to the total pack IR, so the best place to get a true pack IR is right at the charger tie in points, but be aware that the main fuse, main switch, and all the internal bus bars are being included in the test. On the subpack level test, we are right on the subpack terminals, so the IR value will be quite accurate. I will be doing a whole series of You tube videos on how to use the charger and how to do this test, and how to interpret the results. A graph of one of the subpacks that was pulsed with a 30A charge, clearly shows that the blue trace (cell4) has a much higher IR than the rest of the cells in the stick. Cell #4 with High IR
************************************************** Be aware that until you have Charger code V2.0, or higher the discharger will not work. **************************************************
The cost are: Shoplight $24 HV Mosfet $9 Aluminum heatsink/box cover, materials and labor $ 20 Extension harness with HV tap attached to shop light cord $50 Aux control cable, with Aux connector attached $7 Labor to rewire shop light and attach cables $25 Total $135, plus actual shipping. Shipping: Zone 8 --$37, Zone 7 --$32, Zone 6 --$29, Zone 5 --$26, Zone 4 -- $20, Zone 3 --$17, Zone 1-2 --$15
The discharger will come with the required in charger connector.
A special 8" Aux harness with 3 foot cable for tie in to your DIY discharger would be $50 Contact me directly if you are interested. contact us
FAQ My charger is working great. Now, I've been following your work on the discharger and am trying to determine whether I really need one. I stumbled across this a post of yours from back in July of 2011:
"A smart discharger/cycler/tester, for deeper diagnostics of a pack that is not able to be brought back with the charging/balancing." This sentence gives me the impression that the discharger is perhaps not necessary for everybody and that the charger, alone, may be sufficient for some.
As I'm sure you can understand, I'm just trying to control my spending if I don't really need the discharger. For somebody who isn't very knowledgeable in battery chemistry, can you help me understand how I can determine if I can skip the discharger?
When I wrote that, I was expecting that we would have no problem doing a good discharge by driving, but that seems to be more difficult than I anticipated. From my experiments here, the charging balances all cells at 100% SOC, but it looks like unless we discharge the pack to as low a point as possible, the cells capacity will not recover as well as it could. When discharging with driving, we are both discharging and charging, and the car fights us when we try to deplete the pack, and finally the pack will never fully discharge below 20%. This cycling from full to empty is the basis of many RC battery chargers/conditioners, and is the main technique that is being used by battery rebuilders, as the first step in rejuvenating an unbalanced pack. The silver Insight that has been sitting for 2.5 years in my driveway, has an old pack that sat idle except for maybe 4 charges over that period. I pulled it out as a test pack for charger code testing. It was first soak charged for 10 hours, and then discharged.It took 30 minutes to discharge on the first cycle. I ran the discharge/charge cycle 3 times. On the last cycle, the pack ran the discharger for 2.5 hours. a huge improvement in capacity. The discharger also gives us a repeatable way to safely discharge the pack to a safe minimum value, so on the charge half we get a real number for mAh to fill the pack. So not only is it good for the cells to cycle deeply, it is also a good way to determine the condition of the pack, and see if further charging will bring further improvements. SO if your pack is still in decent shape, and you discharge while driving when ever you can, you may not need the discharger. But it opens up a whole new level of cycling and capacity measurements that are not possible without it.
Cycling is probably not something we need to do frequently, so possibly we can set up a loaner program, since it just plugs in, and involves no wiring?
Now that we have a large number of charger users, lets explore in more detail what happens during a charge, and how plotting the charge data can tell us about the condition of the pack.
I wrote a datalogger with National Instrument Labview, that is designed to datalog the charger output in real time, as well as writing a file that can be reviewed later, or analyzed in Excel.
The program requires that you have a working serial port, either direct DB-9 rs232, or via an adpter that converts the rs232 from the charger to USB. I will elaborate here as we gain experience, but for now, you need to install two programs on your PC. I can only confirm that this works on XP machines, and know that a lot of cleanup needs to be done to make the program as easy to use as possible. The first problem was to get something that would run as a stand alone program, without requiring a full Labview development environment. SO down load the configuration program, unzip, and then run the setup program to install it , and the Labview runtime module on your machine. Then download unzip the datalogger. During the install, you will be asked where to install the programs. The location is not important, but it is important that both the config and the datalogger are in the same folder, as the config file that the config program generates, is required by the datalogger. Once both are installed, you will run the config file first. It will open running. The program first looks at the installed com ports and shows their system name. After the program loads the active ports, plug in the usb serial cable into an open USB port, and after the new hardware is recognized by the computer, you will see a new port apear in the config program. Scroll up on the select port until the GC COM Port window shows this new port. When that is finished, clich the set port >1 and that will lock the port selection. Next click the >2 to select the directory that your datalog files will be stored in. Finally click >4+5 to write the config file to the directory . After the write, >3 will switch to read, and you can again click >4+5 to read back the serial port,Config file path,and the Datalog directory. After this one time config, the datalogger will expect to see the port plugged into the same USB slot, and it will put the datalog files in the selected directory.You can close the config program, and then run the Datalog program. The window size and positions are still not clean, but the programs seem to be working, and as long as your monitor is big enough for the whole program you should not have any issues. The two zip files are here: Config V2.6
I realize that many people would like to see if the chargers can "fix" their pack, before they go through the expense and labor to install it in the car. The tests adapters offer a way to do that. I have designed a safe and easy to use system that allows you to do that.
The positive HV test probe with spring hook, the #8 to 1/4" ring adapter for the negative, and the fan plug, allow the charger to be used for charging a pack without requiring the full install, or any removal of the pack. The adapters attach to the harness that would be used for the car, so you can just send back the test adapter components for a refund minus a rental fee. If you decide to send it all back, there will be a small restocking fee if the charger is returned in like new condition. To order a charger and harness, use the pricing on the grid charger blog, just as you would to buy the charger, I will also require all the legal documents and order form. I will charge $100 for the test probe ,and $125 in addition for the Civic kit,($225) plus the actual to be determined shipping charges. The civic test kit requires the test fan assembly to cool the pack when the IMA box is open, and therefore will cost more to ship The shop harness while not having the long test probe, has alligator clips that can charge any pack, but will require that the pack is removed to gain access. Please e-mail or call if you have any questions.
The first gen Civics while being similar to the Insight electrically,are constructed quite differently. The civic IMA box operates at a negative pressure as the blower exhaust air from the box from the power inverter.The replacement air is drawn down through the vent in the rear window area. This air passes through the battery as it is drawn into the box. The IMA box seal is important as any voids or leaks where air can be drawn in would reduce the cooling air drawn through the pack, The Civic pack will be removed, and the charger harness connected to it. The Blower control PC board will mount in the trunk just below the blower, and the temperature probes will mount directly on the pack. This is only a quick overview of the main aspects of the Civic charger install, more detailed instructions will follow. Read More
To make this harness install as clear, sure and safe as possible, there will be not only web based instructions, but also a video going through the whole process in a lot of detail. This page is the draft of the instructions for installing the harness,and will grow into the final web based install instructions as the systems begine to be installed. For now, it is simply a way for people to see how things are shaping up, and give the technical guys something to critique, so we may make this install as painless and sure as possible. Read More
Any charger orders that are received will be returned. We have SOC reset devices, and charger upgrade kits, as well as the programmer kits still available.
Matt from Hybrid ReVolt has purchased the charger design, and is almost ready to sell them. As you can see from the photo, he has changed the color from safety yellow to green, and has also used a white on blue LCD instead of my black on transflective green. You can send a request to him for availability and to get on a waiting list here: Contact Hybrid ReVolt
I will be available by phone and e-mail as always to support all of the people that have purchased chargers from me, and will continue to improve the software and develop new accessories.
************************************** Lets start with a warning, This is a HV battery charger, the reason you can't go out and buy one at Walmart is that the voltages are lethal, which is why I ask that you sign and send me the liability waiver, and have some basic good sense about safety.
The charger and the battery can kill you, so please do not get one of these If you are not well versed on electrical safety, or are the type to treat safety as a secondary consideration. When the main battery switch is off, the pack and associated wiring is quite safe, as no current can flow in or out of the pack, therefore, to charge or use the discharger, the main battery switch must be on.
Use a ground fault circuit for the ac power. Don't stand with wet shoes and handle the charger. Dont leave the charger banging around in the trunk or rear hatch. Don't use the charger if it is cold from sitting out in the car in a condensing humidity, as water could condense on the inner circuit boards. If there is condensation on the windows, there will be condensation on the inner circuit boards, and some HV leakage could result.The AUX connector on the side has full AC power on several of the pins, so do not handle the charger if the cover is missing, as your finger could stick into the hole. We don't want to loose any of our customers, so treat this system like you would any other dangerous electrical device. A word to the wise should be sufficient, but I had someone get a good shock when they lost the side cover and did not cover the hole, and stuck a fingertip in there. **************************************************
The Genesis One LLC charger can charge Insight packs, Prius packs, insight 2 packs, Civic packs of both sizes, CRZ and basically any battery pack NICAD, NIMH, Lead acid, GELL cell, AGM that falls in the voltage range from 7V to 250V. Use it to extend the life of your pack, when you get rid of the car, use it for your next hybrid, or sell it to someone else that is having problems. Charge your 12V batteries, charge a single subpack, it is truly universal. With the new discharger and other accessories, it can also cycle and condition any pack.
If your pack stops responding to the charger, you can diagnose and troubleshoot your pack on the bench without removing the harness. When you finally give up on the pack, you can get a new battery, or possibily a lithium replacement pack, and since the lithium pack will be equipped with a built in balancer, the charger will be able to keep either replacement healthy for the duration. Not a bad investment if you look at the big picture.
Start the ordering process by contacting me via e-mail or phone. download, print,read and sign the forms, and send a Check. If you want to use paypal for payment, you are responsible for the pay pal charges of 3% .Paypal account is firstname.lastname@example.org
Specs: All chargers will operate on 90~264 VAC 47~63 HZ
GCO1 $675 250V max @ 350MA and 1050 ma Constant Current 1) 12V @3A (RS-35-12) 4) 48V @ 1.1A (RS-50-48) 1) 5-48V@ 350ma Constant Current (LPC-20-350) 1) 5-48V@ 700ma Constant Current (LPC-35-700)
Different Hybrids Battery Voltage Insight 2 2010+ 100V Insight 1 2000-2006 144V Civic 2002-2005 144V Civic 2006+ 158V Prius 2004+ 202V
On the harnesses, The charger cannot charge a pack without a harness, so you will need to buy one. The chargers are calibrated with the harness #1, and has provisions for calibrating out any small temperature deviations on the other harnesses that may want to be used with the charger. This is accomplished by having 6 car profiles available, which will automatically apply the correct temperature calibration for each harness/profile.
The Harnesses mount to the battery pack, and can be removed from the car with the pack. The idea is to make the harness move with the pack so one can do bench diagnostics with the charger and the diagnostic accessory, that we will be working on in the near future.
The Insight harness must pass through the rear of the IMA box, so we took the approach that we would make the connector mount on the inside of the IMA box, just below the small aluminum cover on the passenger side of the storage box in the rear. For the occasional balancing charge, one would pull out the storage bin, and plug in under the cover. To allow maximum flexibility in placing the charger connector, I will sell an extension harness, that will attach to the connector on the rear of the IMA box, with a length that you can specify. The base extension harness will be 16 inches, which will allow a comfortable connector location of under the narrow rug that covers the aluminum shelf. The base price of the extension harness will be $35, with a $2 adder per foot of additional length . The same extension cable, can be attached to the charger output cable, so one can mount the charger on a wall, and have a removable extension to reach the car.
The battery pack lifter will be offered for sale for $75, plus shipping. The lifter can be returned (all pieces please) after the charger install, for a $50 refund, so it would cost you shipping in both directions, and $25 to rent the lifter and save your back.
Summary: Universal Overnight charger model # GCO1---$675
Insight harness---$125 first gen civic harness------$150 Second gen Civic harness-----$150 SHop Harness ---------------$175 Extension harness-----$35 16"+ 25 cents/inch for extra length Battery lifter to make handling the pack safer and easier. Pack lifter details
****************************************** NOTICE If people with a 350ma GCM1 or GCIM1 want to upgrade to the 1A GCO1 charger, we are allowing trade ins toward the GCO1. The GCM1 trade in allowance is $350 7-250V 350mA The GCIM1 trade in allowance is $300 7-195V 350mA
When available, the used chargers with the latest software and AUX connector mods and warranty will be available for the discounted price of : GCM1 $400 GCIM1 $350 ***************************************************
Shipping and insurance: All chargers will be shipped via USPS large flat rate boxes, so we can pin down the shipping cost up front. The cost for shipping and insurance will be $28 in the US Canada and Mexico will be $64 Anywhere else in the world will be $88 The chargers. extension harness, and car harnesses will all fit in one box, which will make the shipping cost known irregardless as to the number of harnesses or the charger model. Please be sure to add shipping and insurance to your payment to expedite the process of placing your final order. Mike Dabrowski
************************************************** Warranty: As anyone that bought a MIMA system from me will attest, I stand behind anything I sell, probably to an extreme. I was a TV tech for 10 years, A field service engineer for 10 more, and know better than most how important service after the sale is. It is not unusual for me to spend an hour or more helping with MIMA install or operational questions, and I fully expect to offer the same comprehensive help with the chargers.
I will 100% test all chargers before shipping, and will be available by e-mail or phone to help with in car troubleshooting or install issues. The chargers will be designed to be as rugged and safe as possible if used as directed.
The chargers will be replaced or repaired for free if they fail in the first 30 days. You only need to pay shipping to me. After that I will fix them for a yet to be determined fee.
I can only warrant the internal power supplies by passing on the manufacturers warranty which is quite good, at 2 years for the CC supplies, and 3 years for the fixed supplies.
More than one hybrid? Because of the wide operating range of this charger, all that is required to use the charger on other vehicles is a custom harness for the other cars.
Harnesses for other cars will be developed as required. The universal nature of the charger allows it to safely charge from 7V to 260V batteries, and anywhere in between.Useful for subpack cycling. The charger is suitable for charging the 6.5AH NIMH batteries used in Hybrid cars, and may be suitable for other batteries, but the user must determine the suitability.
I will supply a 120VAC cord with the units, but the input connector is the same as on computers so power cords should be readily available anywhere in the world, and the units will operate at 90-264VAC 50/60HZ .
NOTE: The charger harnesses will require mechanical and electrical connections and mounting in the IMA compartment. I will be including an operation and install video and will have printable instructions on my website detailing how to install and use the chargers. I will also offer an installation service at my place, and will likely have several Grid charger install gatherings here as well.
As people in other areas install their chargers, I would hope they would assist other owners in their area to install a charger jack.
Lets keep our hybrids on the road, and stop a lot of the anxiety about batteries that is preventing more people from getting into this great intermediate step to a sustainable future. I expect that regular pack balancing will be a great way to keep a new pack healthy. Over time as the number of people grid charging their packs grows, we will have a great deal of feedback and will be able to develop very effective ways of keeping batteries healthy for the life of the vehicle.
Whack the pack to erase the cell memory and fix recals
The MIMA pack whack could be a huge new advantage to owning MIMA for the many people struggling with limited capacity battery packs due to recalibration's.
The pack can also be balanced with the grid charger described below.
*****DANGER, THE BATTERY AND THIS PROPOSED CHARGER CAN ELECTRICUTE YOU, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS IF YOU DO NOT HAVE THE PROPER TRAINING*****************
As many of you know, I have been using MIMA on my pack since 80K, and as I approach 180K, the pack still runs fully from top to bottom, on each cycle. Since I do not have recal's, it is something that I was not able to examine. On my trip to Hybridfest, I flew out to MI,to ride out with Ed Zandee,a very savvy auto technician who owns his own service center in Grand Rapids. Ed purchased a used 2000 Insight with 130K on the clock.Like many older Insights, he was getting a typical recal whenever his pack reached 5-6 bars from the bottom. Ed Installed a MIMA system the day before we drove the 350 miles to Madison. I drove some of the way, and got to experience recals first hand for the first time. Ed and I started to experiment and analyze what was happening. We noticed that the recal point seemed to move up the scale one bar as the pack temp increased.We also found that full regen could be applied with MIMA, even though the SOC guage was showing full and limiting the standard IMA regen. I have since confirmed that my pack will stop MIMA charging near the top bar, so it is synchronized with the SOC display. Most of us with MIMA will stop regen when the SOC is at the top, since we fear overcharging. This is where we do the PackWhack. Just let the ABC keep charging until it is limited, even though the SOC is at max. Drain it down till no assist is available, and you have given it a stop to stop full charge. On the way back, we again took turns driving,We decided to push past the SOC top end and using MIMA we continued to freely charge, for quite some time while the SOC was pegged at the top. A good pack will stop excepting charge from MIMA when full,even if the MIMA system request it, so this was a new experience for me. We decided to keep jambing charge into the pack to see if it would eventually start limiting, and eventually it did, but only after putting in the approximate equivalent of charging to about 6 more bars. We then switched on PIMA, and started running a lot of assist. We were drawing full assist for several minutes, before the SOC finally began to drop, and it dropped smoothly to the recal point, and then recalled as normal, but this time, even with no bars of SOC, we were able to draw the full 100 A of assist for several minutes as the photo above shows, until the assist finally became limited. We ran the pack through the cycle another time, with the same results. We got back to Ed's place, feeling that the pack was outputting a lot more capacity than before. The real surprise came the next day, when Ed brought me back to Detroit for my flight home. The recals were gone. We cycled the pack several times, and the SOC ran from the top,right to the bottom. Ed will do some more test runs with his Honda factory scan tool and get us more information. Making some assumptions which still need to be tested, my read of this experiment is that the SOC limits that stop normal IMA action at both ends are different that the BCM top and bottom limits which are based on actual voltage measurements on both ends. When a pack starts having limited capacity issues due to the memory effect, the SOC in normal IMA mode will stop regen when the guage is at the top,even though the pack is really not charged fully. The MIMA forced charge is limited instead by the BCM when it determines that the battery voltage has reached the max. So this MIMA PackWhack as Ed and I began to call it, allows the pack to be fully charged past the SOC gauge limited point that the standard IMA is limited by, and is only stopped when fully charged, therefore doing the equivalent of a equalization charge on a lead acid based pack. I suggest that any of the MIMA owners that have recals give this a try. Just stay in an ABC forced charge, or manually do regen until the charge is limited even though the SOC bars are full. Then do assist with PIMA or MIMA until it starts to be limited on the bottom end. Do several of these cycles, then see what happens with your recals the next day. Of course you are doing this at your own risk, as it will take some time to see if this effect is temporary. This blog will be where we will put the results of further testing of this experimental procedure. All recals are not the same, so this procedure is for the standard regular recal at a specific SOC that seems to be the most common. A long time MIMA user from CT drove up on DEC 13 2008. He was getting repeated P1568 codes.(Battery Module Individual Voltage problem) If the car was allowed to sit, it would sometimes clear and things would work normally for a while. This was happening on a daily basis, sometimes more than once. We looked at all of the pin plug MIMA connections and found that they were solid and all were firmly plugged in.Wiggling the harness did not cause any issues. Since the code would indicate that a subpack was showing a voltage match problem compared to the rest,I suggested that he try the pack whack on the way home. He did a full MIMA induced charge until limiting kicked in, then did a discharge to the bottom, then started driving normally. He has put over 300 miles on the car since then with no further codes.The pack whack can definitely help many problem battery packs, and for all of the MIMA owners, it is very simple to do. This blog starts at the page bottom. Read More
Genesis One, LLC
If you would like to get involved or support any of these projects, please contact me at (860)935-5569.