|One of the requirements of MIMA was that it allowed normal IMA to operate without interference from MIMA. Since we have cut two of the key wires in the IMA control system, we must always either provide a substitute signal, or connect the original signal to the car. The MIMA design uses relays to perform this switching function so the signals are always connected when MIMA is un-powered or turned off. If the MIMA board is not connected to the MIMA ribbon, a bypass plug must be plugged in to the main ribbon connector in it's place to reconnect the wires that we have cut.|
****** WARNING THE HV IS NOW BACK ON *********
Be careful the back is still open.
I have provided two bypass plugs. One is potted in Hot melt so the wires are insulated, the other has the bypass connections and all other connections exposed for easy testing. We will plug in the test connector for the following test. The black side of the connector should match the black side of the MIMA ribbon, or the side that has the brown ribbon wire on the ribbon edge.
All of the MCM and BCM connectors need to be plugged back into the modules, and the main power switch must be turned on for the following test. The test plug must also be plugged into the Main connector, and carefully prevented from touching the cars chassis.
|Test 1: Confirm car starts, and no IMA codes|
Start the car. The car should start with the IMA motor, and have no check engine or IMA lights illuminated.
Since the harness was disconnected from the MCM and BCM, it is possible that the car will start with the 12V starter, and show an IMA light. If this happens follow the procedure for an MCM reset below, or if no lights and normal IMA starting, go to test 2.
This test also confirms that the MAMODE1, and CMDPWR connections are being properly jumpered by the test connector, and therefore are connected to the proper Main ribbon connector wires. Since they are jumpered, they could still be reversed, but we will discover that once we do the power on test.
A more aggressive (and wasteful)technique is the forced charge.
The Forced charge procedure is to pull the #15 EPS fuse (40A) from the under hood fuse/relay box, then start the engine in neutral and hold the rpm at ~3500 rpm till the battery gauge becomes normal.
So far the simplest techniques is to just drive normally for 5-10 minutes, and the batteries should charge right up.
|Test 2: confirm 13.6 volts|
Connect the black or negative lead of the DVM to pin 3, the logic ground terminal, and the positive lead to pin 1 the switched 13.6V supply. Start the car. This voltage should be between 12.6 and 14VDC.
|Test 3: confirm VSS|
The negative lead is left connected to pin 3, and the positive lead to pin 12 the VSS signal. This signal will be either a low (0V) or a high( 5V) when the car is stopped. As soon as the car begins to move, the signal will alternate between low and hi, and switch faster as the car moves faster. With the leads connected, engine running car in neutral, push or drive the car slowly, while watching the meter to confirm that the signal switches high and low. If it switches, the VSS connection is good.
|Test 4: confirm battery amp monitor connections|
Leave the negative lead of the DVM connected to pin 3 Logic ground. Connect the positive lead of the DVM to confirm that pin 11 measures the -12V.
Next measure pin 10, to confirm that the +12V is ok.
Finally measure pin 9 to confirm that the amp signal is working. The voltage of this pin will be 0 if no amps are being put into or removed from the battery, so you may need to take a short ride to confirm that this voltage changes with the assist and charge bar graphs. 0.02Volts per amp, + for assist, - for charge. That would be 2V for full assist, and 1V for full charge. All we need to do here is confirm that this voltage changes when the bar graphs change.
Drive to charge the battery to at least 3-5 bars, as we will need to try the assist during the operational test.
3. Thread the Harness
4. Threading the Harness, Cont'
5. Opening the Harness
6. Level 1 Install (rear connections)
7. Fan Diodes Install
8. Battery Amp Monitor Rear Connections
9. Mounting the MIMA system in the car.
10. Level One wiring test.
11. Level 1 Check first power up
12. The first MIMA operational test
13. Testing the fan control wiring
14. Confirming temp probe and fan control operation